Click through this Featured Gallery to get ideas about a custom job made just for you.

Pricing

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Open and Reseal

150 - Flat Rate Labor (Tier 1)*

250 - Flat Rate Labor (Tier 2)

350 - Flat Rate Labor (Tier 3)

*(Most Common)

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Paint

Satin or Flat Black:

80 - OEM Main Bezel (housing)

20 - OEM Shroud

10 - Amber Reflector (corner)

OEM 2 Stage Paint

110 - OEM Main Bezel (housing)

40 - OEM Shroud

20 - Amber Reflector (corner)

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Retrofits

100 - Mounting Projectors

100 - Custom Vacuum Formed Shrouds

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LED Accessory Lights

20 - Single Color Angel Eyes (4 wires)

30 - Dual Color Angel Eyes (6 Wires)

30 - 2-way LED Modules (6 wires)

40 - Switchback Relay /Capacitor Module (8 wires)

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Local Services

25 - Removing and Remounting Headlight Units

100 - Removal and Remounting Front Bumper

100 - Aiming Headlight beams

50 - Installing Wiring Harnesses in the engine bay

100 - Installing Wiring Harness with a switch in the cabin

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Off Road Use only

50 - HID Kit installation

Pricing Explained

Open and Reseal

Tier 1 - Most headlights are sealed using a rubber butyl glue like material. When heated, this glue becomes plyable and the headlight front lens is able to be pryed away from the back of the headlight unit. Headlights that fall into this range can be quickly and safely heated in an oven at 250º for 4-5 minutes, then the tabs that hold the front lens in place can be lifted and the clear lens can be separated. Later the same process is used to reinstall the lens, leaving little or no evidence that the lights were ever opened.

Tier 2 - Some Headlights are sealed using a more permenant glue that does not respond to heat the same was as the rubber butyl. These headlights are typically Domestic models, such as Corvette, Camaro, Charger, 300C, and even some odd ball imports like the 4G Eclipse. The process is similar to the butyl sealed lights, only a longer heat time is required and more prying is involved to get the lens to finally release from the backing. These jobs require all OEM sealant to be removed from both the lens and the backing, and resealed with 100% Silicone.

Tier 3 - If you are thinking about trying to DIY on these types of jobs... don't. The lights in this range have to be cut into, using a special plastic cutting blade on a dremel tool. The process to open them is either cutting near the seam where the two halves of the light are fused together from the factory, trimming the very edge backing that covers the clear lens and then prying between the exposed clear plastic and the seal to the backing beneath it, or simply cutting a specific path in the housing to clears all internal parts and still provides a clean seam for the reseal.

Paint

Paint is seriously the most underutylized styling technique to enhance the look of a car. Very few OEMs offer anything other than chrome or black plastic finishes in their headlights. Other cars such as C6 Corvettes, Farrari 360, and strangely enough the Honda Fit all come with factory paint matched headlights. Other very popular trends are to get rid of the chrome and amber accents in the headlights. Certain countries do no require an Amber Reflector in the headlights, and come equiped with clear lenses instead. In North America, all cars have an ugly Amber Reflector, typically located inside the headlights, although some have the amber located on the bumper (such as on many BMW models).

Here are some terms to get acquainted with to understand which parts are being painted or modified:

Front Lens - The Clear Plastic "cover" of the headlight.

Backing - the part of the headlights that hold the major lighting components.

Bezel - the main plastic housing that dresses up the look of the units.

Shroud - the plastic housing that surrounds the glass projector lens.

Corner Reflector - The translucent reflective lens (usually orange).

Custom paint themes can be a simple as an OEM paint matched projector shroud. Imagine a red car, with chrome bezel headlights that have a red shroud. On the other hand, a theme could include 2 or 3 different colors and finishes, such as a White car with gold wheels, with the main bezel in Satin Black with OEM White Shrouds and the inner trim of the Shroud painted gold to match the wheels. By far the most popular, most "safe" or trendy paint scheme is just removing all chrome pieces and painting them flat black. This is most likely due to the amount of DIY jobs that people do at home with rattle cans and post their photos up on popular car forums all over the internet. The main question to ask yourself if you want to fit in, or stand out from the crowd. There's pros and cons to each.

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Retrofits

Projector retrofiting is something you may have heard about, and ultimately it is centered around adding a very effecient HID specific projector unit in place of the standard projector, or into a reflector type housing. A reflector housing is just a big bowl with lots of little square angles that reflector a halogen bulb out toward the street. Lots of new cars are coming equiped with Projectors, and the Luxury models usually have the best examples of this.

All projectors are not created equally, and some include the ability to be used as a Low beam AND a Hi beam, aka "Bi-Xenon". Retrofits are all about performance, and whether the car came stock with a dumpy reflector setup and weak yellowish white halogen bulbs, or whether it came stock with D1S Bi-Xenon HID projectors from the factory, there are still those who want to put in something better. Some retrofits are as simple as swapping out 4 screws and replacing an old stock projector for an aftermarket model that fits right into place. Other jobs can require extensive cutting, trimming, bracket work, and epoxy to be installed and aligned properly.

No matter what the job entails, this work isn't for everyone. To access the part of the headlight that houses the projectors, all of the parts that affect the way the beam pattern is aimed, have to be messed with. A great retrofit might produce some amazing light, but if its aiming crooked and not set correctly, its going to do nothing but blind other drivers and get you into trouble.

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LED Accessories

More than likely 90% of the people who find their way to this page want some LED work done. You're at the right place. I started doing custom LED lighting in 2003, a year before starting FlyRyde. LED lighting accessories are so readily available and powereful these days, that just about any look or function you've seen can be built into a custom set. Everyone wants infamous "LED Strip" or Audi strip as some call it. The final outcome of that look, would be a line made up of bright LED dots. This can be accomplished using LED strips attached to the bezel of the headlights, and come in the form of side edmitting, and forward firing strips. A downside to strips is that the spaces in between LEDs show the flexible strip, which can look cheesy to some.

Enter fully custom installed high power LEDs. We can mount as many or as few LEDs individually as requested, and even hook them up to custom built circuit board control boards like in the video below. These techniques are very rarely seen, used, or even known about. Only the geekiest of the geeks gets down with soldering 32+ wires, programming computer chips in special code, and running everything to little toggle swiches that control things like speed, pattern, etc. If you can imagine the difference between hooking up two wires from a flexible strip, and the hours it takes for something fully custom, you should be able to understand that custom works starts at, easily, 4-5 times the price of premade strips or modules.

LED parts that are wired into the headlights are billed per wiring connection. So if you want 2 angel eyes in each headlight, and they just need to be hooked up to power and ground from the running lights, that's only 2 wiring connections per headlight. This is the same for LED or CCFL Angel Eyes. The cost is 5 dollars per connection. So whether its 4 Angel Eyes or 2 Angel eyes, the cost is the same, 20 dollars for both headlights total. Some parts have 3 wires, and some have 4 wires. A recent job required 26 internal wiring connections be made, which results in much longer build times, and hence, the 5 dollars per wire charge.

There is no cost to mount LED accessories, this is already covered in the flat rate labor charge.